Shoe sewing machine



April 1942- LE FOREST L. SHAW SHOE SEWING MACHINE Filed Jill 20, 1959 Patented Apr. 7, 1942. 1 t I I UNITED STATES PATENT orsicE Le Forest L. Shaw, North Abington, Mass, as- Signor to United Shoe Machinery Corporation. Borough of Flemington, N. J a corporation of New Jersey Application 11115 20, 1939, Serial N 0. 285,506

7 Claims. (Cl. 112-432) The present invention relates :to shoe. sewing the strip is'maintained more accurately afteratmachines, and more particularly to the welt tachment to the'shoe,=so'that nospecial manipguiding devices of inseam sewing machines for ulations are required andno particular difficulty attaching a welt strip to themarginal portions is encountered in further shoe making operaof a lasted shoe upper and insole. s tions. In case the welt is not already preformed -In sewing a welt strip to a shoe upper in an by bending it into the exact angular shape reinseam sewing machine, the usual practice is to quired, it may be preferable to employv a guide guide thewelt in such relation to the machine v ng a right n lar p portion ly that the seamwill pass through one edge of the surrounding the welt for holding the welt more strip while the other edge is left free for atto accu at ly in s ap a d iorp v t e taching the outsole of the shoe. Ordinarily the guide construction. As hereinafterillustrated, welt is so sewn that the free edge projects .from the machine'is of the curved hook needle'typ the inseam in the general direction of the main d t p ventthe needle :from accident l y'e last supported body portion of the upper, the in- 1 a ihgithe p jec f e e the e We seam being concealed ina completed shoe by the :5 asit leaves the u e; a: Welt lifting finger 1S outsole. In some, instances, however, the welt zp extending Within the are of -h is attached in a reverse manner with the fre curvature and beyond the needle in the direction "edge :of the Welt projecting towards and beyond of fee th fin eren a i s h r W l d e the edge ofthe-shoe upper, the free weltiedgerbea holding it Clear 0f needle; Where the ing at the opposite side of the seam. from the Welt p d y D n it With'the'eXaCt main body of the shoe upper and the "last. Beshapeinwhioh it is sswsdto the shositis fore attaching the outsole, the reversed welt is necessary to r ric h free edge f the w y bent acutely to the edge through .the an enclosing 100p Portion e guide- In stitches pass and, after the outsole is attached, n in tan es wher h we r p i p e rm the stitches of the inseam-remain exposed in the? v before attachment, a third flange ored e may crevice formedtby the bent welt. During and 'afh provided On the Welt Strip Which edge is ter attachment in the reverse manner, it is a1so direot d g 't margihalpoltioh 0f the dificult to manipulate the Welt and to prepare l o W en a t Strip with a third "flan e is the shoe for further operations in present exp y e t guide m y e Suitably d isting commercial type shoe making machines= 7Y0 fled-by providing a reversely bent portion enclosso that. the-output of such machines is substan-- t e third e Of Strip, the d Qfthe tially reduced from normal running capacity. veiselyr n guide po n r in the p n The objects of the present invention are to through Which the p ojectin free edge of the simplify and. improve the construction of welt Welt Strip extendsguides for shoe inseam sewing machi i d 13.; Other features or the invention consist in the to render it possible t se a, lt strip int combinations and arrangementsof parts hereinreverse manner to the insole and overlasted after described and claimed, t e advantages of marginal portions of the shoeupper without rewhich will be readily understood from the followquiring unusual skill or ability on the part of the s description taken in n i n wit he operator, either during the sewing operation or; Compahying drawing n W c igu e 1 is a View while preparing the sewed shoe for further shoe in e elevation f a p o f a m c ine emmaking operations. With these and other obbody ng e Wel guide o t present ihVehtiOh, a J'ects in view, the present invention relates to the portion, of a 1108 being nd a d. in p ra provision in a shoe inseam sewing machine havleiatiohlto the m i e; Figure iS a perspec;

ing a work piercing needle and a channel guide of B e Of e W t guide showihgsits mahnor a welt guide arranged to lead one edge of the of a d-F gure 3 is a detail view of a modiwelt strip against the shoe upper into line with ed form 0 We guide e o y Certain eathe inseam, and formed with an opening at the tures of the invention.

side of the guide away from the upper to direct In e drawing, e invention is Shown as th fr edge of th lt strip i angular 1 embodied in an inseam shoe sewing machine tic n tothe edge which is led into the ins a which is in construction andmode of operation and away from the shoe upper at the opposite the same in many respects to that described in side of the needle from. the main body portion U. S. Letters Patent of Eppler 1,103550 dated of the upper; By directing the welt strip in bent August 25, 1914, in which a welt guide is proangular shape while being sewed, the shape of vided and arranged to direct a welt strip into line with the seam connecting the insole and the overlasted marginal portion of a shoe upper, one edge of the welt strip being free and extending from the seam line along the main body portion of the upper. The machine is provided with a curved hook needle 2, a looper 4 to lay the thread in the needle, a take-up 6, a back rest 8, a channel guide In, and a welt guide, all of which are similar, except as hereinafter described, to the corresponding parts in the machine of the patent. However, in the present machine the welt guide is so located that instead of directing the welt strip into line with the seam and with the free edge extending along the last supported main body portion of the shoe upper, the welt is directed in the reverse manner with the free edge projecting beyond the marginal unsupported portion of the upper at the opposite side of the seam line from the last and from the main body of the shoe upper.

Referring more particularly to Figure l, the insole of the shoe is indicated at l2 supported on a last I4 with the overlasted upper l6 and lining l8 temporarily secured to the lip of the insole. In operating the present machine, one

edge of the welt strip is led into the seam line, and the other edge 2| remains free with the needle passing between the free edge and the last supported main body portion of the shoe upper rather than at one side of both the free welt edge and the last supported portion of the upper as in the patent referred to. When the welt strip is so directed it frequently interferes with the operation of the stitch-forming devices and requires constant manual adjustment as the strip is directed into the seam, thus necessitating slower sewing speeds. Furthermore, after the seam is completed, the welt strip must be bent towards the shoeupper to permit the outer edges of the upper and the rib of the insole to be trimmed and flattened for the reception of the outsole. The trimming and flattening often results in injury to the seam or to the welt strip because it is difiicult to hold the free edge of the strip at a position in which it will not be injured in the operations subsequent to the sewing.

To avoid these difliculties with the present machine the welt guide is so arranged that it causes the welt strip to be directed in bent condition against the shoe upper as the seam is being sewed or the welt strip is already preformed by bending into right angle sectional shape. In forming the seam with the welt bent at an angle, the stitches will be inserted in a manner to assist inretaining a permanently and uniformly bent condition in the welt after attachment. The welt guide as illustrated in Figure 1 is in the form of a pair of parallel straps 22 and 24. The strap 22 is bent at its forward end towards the end of the strap 24, an opening 26 being provided between the ends of the straps at the side of the guide away from the shoe upper. The straps are secured to a bracket 28 on the machine frame by a bolt 30 passing through slots 3| in the straps so that the width of the opening between their ends may be adjusted for different sizes of preformed welt strips, the positions of the ends of the guide straps locating the position of the welt strip.

The illustrated welt strip has, in addition to its right angle edge 2| which extends through the opening .26, a base terminating in an edge 34 and the edge 20. The base is formed by splitting a portion of the welt and after folding the halves in opposite directions, reversing one-half against itself and beneath the other half which is cut off with its edge registering with the edge of the first half. The parts are then cemented to hold them in place, a T-shaped welt strip thus being produced. To accommodate the T-shaped welt strip, the guide strap 22 is reversely bent to receive the third edge 34, and to direct said edge along the margin of the shoe upper. In trimming the margin of the shoe upper and insole lip having sewed thereto a T-shaped welt strip, the third edge 34 of the strip is trimmed together with the upper and lip so as to eliminate the formation of voids between the welt and the upper.

Where a simple preformed welt strip 36 or a strip which is formed into angular shape as it is being sewed is provided, as illustrated in Figure 3, the welt guide straps 22, 24 are replaced by a single bent strap 38 having a loop portion 40 surrounding the opening through which the right angle edge of the welt strip projects.

To avoid accidental contact with the projecting edge of an angle shaped welt strip by the needle, the bracket 28 which supports the welt guide has a welt lifting finger 42 arranged to extend inside the arc of needle curvature and beyond the needle in the direction of feed. The finger 42 causes the welt to be raised for the passage of the needle and to bridge the space occupied by the needle between the welt guide and the finger.

The nature and scope of the invention having been indicated, and a particular embodiment of the invention having been specifically described, what is claimed is:

1. A shoe inseam sewing machine having, in combination, a work piercing needle arranged to penetrate and emerge from the insole and overlasted marginal portions of a shoe upper, a channel guide and a welt guide arranged to lead one edge of a welt strip against the marginal portion of the upper into line with the inseam, and formed with an opening at the side of the guide away from the upper to direct the free edge of the welt strip in angular relation to another edge which is led against the shoe upper, said free edge extending away from the shoe upper at the opposite side of the needle from the overlasted main body portions of the upper.

2. A shoe inseam sewing machine having, in combination, a work piercing needle arranged to penetrate and emerge from the insole and overlasted marginal portions of a shoe upper, a channel guide and a welt guide at opposite sides of the overlasted marginal portions, the welt guide being arranged to lead one edge of a welt strip against the marginal portion of the upper into line with the inseam and formed with a right angle enclosing loop at the side of the guide opposite the shoe upper, the needle passing between that portion of welt strip guided by the right angle enclosing loop and the overlasted main body portions of the shoe upper.

3. A shoe inseam sewing machine having, in combination, a curved hook needle arranged to penetrate the marginal portions of a shoe upper lasted over an insole, a channel guide and a welt guide arranged to lead one edge of a welt strip against the overlasted marginal portion of the upper into line with the seam and formed with an opening at the other side of the guide to direct the free edge of the welt strip in angular relation to the edge which is led against the upper and away from the upper inside the arc of needle curvature.

4. A shoe inseam sewing machine having, in combination, a Work piercing needle arranged to penetrate and emerge from the insole and overlasted marginal portions of a shoe upper, a channel guide and a welt guide arranged to lead one edge of a T-shaped Welt strip against the overlasted marginal portion of the shoe upper into line with the inseam, and formed with an opening at the side of the guide away from the upper to direct a second edge of the welt strip in angular relation to the first edge and away from the upper at the opposite side of the seam line from the main body of the upper, said guide being provided with a reversely bent portion for directing the third edge of the strip alongthe margin of the upper.

5. A shoe inseam sewing machine having, in

combination, a work piercing needle arranged to penetrate and emerge from the insole and overlasted marginal portions of a shoe upper, a channel guide and a pair of parallel straps, one of which is bent at its end towards the end of the other arranged to lead one edge of a welt strip against the overlasted marginal portion of the shoe upper into line with the inseam and formed with an opening between the ends of the straps to direct another edge of the welt strip in angular relation to the first mentioned edge and away from the shoe upper at the opposite side of the seam line from the main body of the upper.

6. A shoe inseam sewing machine having, in

combination, a Work piercing needle arranged to penetrate and emerge from the insole and overlasted marginal portions of a shoe upper, a channel guide, a pair of parallel straps, one of which is bent at its end towards the end of the other arranged to lead one edge of a welt strip against the overlasted marginal portion of the shoe upper into line with the inseam and formed with an opening between the ends of the straps to direct another edge of the welt strip in angular relation to the first mentioned edge and away from the shoe upper at the opposite side of the seam line from the main body of the upper, and means for adjusting the width of the opening between the ends of the straps.

7. A shoe inseam sewing machine having, in combination, a curved hook needle arranged to penetrate the marginal portions of a shoe upper lasted over an insole, a channel guide, a welt guide arranged to lead one edge of a welt strip against the overlasted marginal portion of the upper into line with the seam and formed with an opening at the other side of the guide to direct the free edge of the welt strip in angular relation to the edge which is led against the upper and away from the upper inside the arc of needle curvature, and a flange lifting fingeracting inside the arc of needle curvature beyond the needle in the direction of feed to raise the second mentioned edge of the welt clear of the needle.

LE FOREST L. SHAW. 

